No “small” feat
Portland-based designer Alyson Fox of A Small Collection raises the bar on sustainable fashion
By Britt Julious
Published: April 28th, 2008 | 10:35am
Alyson Fox of A Small Collection is not just a designer in the eco-conscious fashion scene, she is one of the emerging innovators. While other designers merely work with organic fabrics, Fox takes environmental consciousness to a whole other level. Besides the extensive use of hemp, organic cotton, and linen, Fox also incorporates fallen tree branches fashioned into buttons and eliminates zippers from her collections. “By deciding to go as green as possible it made a lot of possibilities not an option. I had to get more creative with how to wear the garment,” the Portland-based designer says. Indeed, her limited collection of a-line shift and dropped waist shift dresses, and mix and match separates are structurally unique and effortlessly chic.
What was your experience like growing up? Were you always interested in fashion or is fashion a more recent interest?
I think I have always been into fashion. I grew up as an army brat so I got to travel a lot, which I loved. All of that inspired me and guided me to have a creative approach to my wardrobe.
What was the initial inspiration for creating the collection?
I really wanted to combine a lot of my interests into one project. I felt a small clothing line was a good challenge for me to push the whole art direction of it. I was able to do video, photography, illustration, and styling all in one.
What was the creation process like for the original Spring/Summer line?
I just went for it. I found a pattern drafter and just started to play with some ideas. I wanted this first collection to be very easy, not super fitted, and versatile. I only had $3,000 to invest so I had to be simple at first. My goal for next season is to get some of my textile images embroidered onto [the pieces].
What are sources of inspiration for the pieces you create? Would you consider "nature" to be a fundamental inspiration when creating your collections?
My main source of inspiration is the weather, my mood, my characters in my drawings, relationships, art, other designers, and vintage pieces. Nature is definitely a fundamental inspiration because it's all eco- friendly. I’m trying to make the least waste possible with it.
What sort of fabrics do you use when creating your pieces? Why do you find it important to use sustainable fabrics?
With the first collection mostly, hemp, organic cotton, and linen. With my new collection a lot of found fabric, organic cotton, and hanky weight linen. It's important to use sustainable fabrics because we have to switch gears with how we live and interact with the environment if we want to sustain what we have. Sustainable fabrics take the least wear and tear on the environment.
You've been noted for your use of buttons fashioned out of fallen tree branches, as well as the absence of zippers. Can you elaborate a little bit more on the process?
Zippers are made from Nylon which is not eco, and I wanted to be as minimal as possible. When researching for notions I found buttons made from fallen tree branches, recycled glass...and I thought that was perfect.
I also liked the challenge of designing with guidelines. By deciding to go green as possible it made a lot of possibilities not an option. I had to get more creative with how to wear the garment.
You are also a photographer and illustrator. How has your art background been beneficial in your creations?
For me it all bleeds together. I think they all work with each other and inspire me in different ways. I find myself drawing textiles on my characters in my drawings that I want to incorporate into my clothes. Then I find my photographs inspire drawings....
Your website is rather unique, as each piece literally comes to life with mini-films. Why did you decide to design it as such?
I wanted a website that was both different and personal, but at the same time simple. I wanted videos to display the clothes because I wanted to do away with having to print look books and line sheets. I felt that seeing them in movement was better than seeing them printed on a piece of paper and that would cut down on a lot of waste.
What are your future plans for the line? What are you currently working on?
I am switching gears a bit and making organic undergarments - ones that are meant to be layered and seen. I wanted a smaller canvas that I could get my textiles onto and I liked the idea of them being versatile with other garments that you already own. It's looking like it will be about 5 pieces with some embroidery and hand drawn detail. My goal is to have it done by August. I am also collaborating on a small line with my friend Caitlin Mociun that will be out this August.
View the entire line of Alyson Fox's work at asmallcollection.com
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