Unconventional comfort
Former ballerina and designer Nami Ogawa creates comfortable and avant-garde clothing for the everyday dancer
By Britt Julious
Published: October 31st, 2007 | 11:28am
Only Nami Ogawa, designer (along with husband and graphic artist Brian Holderman) of ZETO Clothing and manager of the company’s flagship store, Apartment, could make clothing that addresses the everyday pirouettes and pliés of the avant-garde fashion fan. Ogawa, a former dancer, makes kimono shaped shirt dresses, wool coats with oversized collars, and even fine jersey t-shirts incorporating Holderman’s latest art work out of a natural fiber blend in order to stretch. “Some people never see [cotton jersey] as couture gown material, but I do,” the designer quips. “My design places comfort first.”
This attention to each piece of clothing has defined ZETO Clothing as it quickly rises as an intricately designed, structured and manufactured brand for the fashionable masses. Every item from the ZETO collection is modified several times after the final pattern is made. Each final sample is also worn for at least a day by Ogawa to make sure the multi-faceted cardigans, puff-sleeved evening gowns, and fleece hoodie-dresses are comfortable. The clothing is even washed multiple times to make sure the stitches and original shape can hold up for the real-world customer. “I only want to create something that lasts decades,” Ogawa says.
ZETO Clothing began in 2001 after Ogawa moved to Pittsburgh from Tokyo, Japan for a job as a merchandiser. After years of designing costumes for the stage, as well as working for a buyer for such companies as Benetton and American Eagle Outfitters and aa a designer with Stussy and Roxy, Ogawa met Holderman, an illustrator for newspapers and designer for posters. The two began collaborating on knit tops, with Ogawa designing and stitching and Holderman painting each piece. As demand increased, the personal artistic process that initially defined the two designers’ role in the company changed. The designers then revisited their initial motivation and went back to their roots of clothing that reflects their artistic vision and attention to craftsmanship. “Some of our items take too long to make and the process is not easy,” Ogawa begins, “but that is what ZETO products are and who we are.”
The duo’s Spring ’08 collection entitled “Nostalgia” is, according to Ogawa, the combination of feelings of “happiness, sadness, and longing when recalling a person, place or event from the past or in general.” For Ogawa, her childhood was the strongest influence. A dress with ruffles and patches was created with Ogawa’s first jewelry box – round-shaped with ruffles and embellishments – in mind. “Of course, when I was five, I did not own any jewelry, only pretty pebbles and beads. I stored them inside the box,” Ogawa says. “I enjoyed the feelings of what might be inside. I hope by wearing our Nostalgia collection, you can also enjoy a great memory from your past.”
Ogawa and Holderman plan on re-locating their brand to Tokyo to “challenge ourselves with more competition and stimulus,” Ogawa says. For right now though, the duo will continue with the process that has proved beneficial for their brand and customers alike. “This is our 12th season since we started ZETO and we are still producing each item with two assistants,” Ogawa says. “We believe in products that were paid attention to. Our customers can feel the difference in it and we hope [they] wear our clothes for a long time.”
View more online at zetoclothing.com
Issue #34
Comments
Please login to be able to comment on this article.
more