VZ City Guides: Las Vegas, NV

By Beverly Bryan
Published: August 11th, 2009 | 10:30pm

Nicknames: Sin City, Glitter Gulch, Entertainment Capital of the World
Population: nearly 1.9 million, LV metro area
Happening ‘Hoods: Downtown, University Crest

Some of the most fabulous things about fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada are located well away from the glare and permanent traffic jam of the Strip. Sure, the palatial resort hotels offer world-class dining, shopping and entertainment, but there are those for whom that somehow isn’t much of a lure — aside from the obvious budgetary drawbacks. How about urban exploring in a supremely offbeat southwestern city? If that’s more your speed, Venus Zine has got the how-to for waking up in Vegas with a smile on your face.

Dates:
If possible, time your visit to coincide with First Friday. On the first Friday of each month all the art galleries downtown stay open late and a street fair with artist booths, live music and vendors takes over portions of downtown. Don’t miss the shows at The Arts Factory and Naomi Arin Contemporary Art. Afterwards, hit Las Vegas’ Beauty Bar for the beloved funk and soul dance party known as “The Get Back.” Fueled by adept DJs, talented break dancing crews usually clear a space for themselves on the generally balmy back patio. Downtown also hosts the Neon Reverb music festival every March and September, bringing bands from around the country to its venues while also bringing the best local bands out of the woodwork. The Vegas music scene is best known for The Killers and Panic! At the Disco, but there’s a lot more where that came from.

Sights:
After checking out the cool, old casinos and wedding chapels along the downtown portion of the Strip, ditch it for the Pinball Hall of Fame. You can play pinball games from as early as the 1960s and classic video games too. You have zero chance of winning money but whatever you spend goes to charity. The glittering Liberace Museum is right nearby and just seeing the world’s largest rhinestone alone is worth the stop. Next, make an appointment to visit the Neon Boneyard. The chain link enclosed garden houses retired signage from the great old casinos. It’s an eerily beautiful place to commune with Sin City's storied past.

Fare:
On the Strip don’t miss The Peppermill — part surreal diner landscaped with candy-colored glowing trees and part sci-fi lounge with seating arranged around a flaming pool. (You have to see it.) While it is known for gigantic, multi-straw cocktails, the food stands on its own and comes in equally huge portions. Try the Bagel Bene-Florentine.

Chapala's has two locations but don’t call it a chain. Do order the Grandpa Margarita to go with absolutely anything on the rich Southwestern-style Mexican menu. On weekends, the Tropicana Boulevard location features a strolling guitar trio that sometimes does Beatles covers in Spanish. Vegetarians and omnivores alike will dig the pan-Asian possibilities of Chinatown Plaza — vegetarians will be especially pleased by the addicting sandwiches served up at tiny Veggie Delight. Casa Di Amore makes a little bit of old Vegas style available 24 hours. Serious Italian-American comfort food, mood lighting and a sunken dining area makes it the quintessential classy joint.

Nights:
If there’s one thing Las Vegas has to offer, it’s piles of fun dive bars ranging from Champagne’s Cafe, with its elegant flocked wallpaper, to the deeply sketchy but totally classic Atomic Liquor. For a good time, include the Double Down Saloon in your crawl for a bacon martini or their signature drink, Ass Juice. It’s always punk rock on stage and bizarre videos on the TVs. Oh, and it’s easily the friendliest bar in the city. There’s a Double Down in New York now but this is the original and, unlike the NYC Double D, this one never closes.

Las Vegans especially love the Griffin, a deep dark joint made to look like the cellar of an ancient chateau, where there’s indie rock on the jukebox and the drinks are made of reliably stern stuff. Right next door, the Downtown Cocktail Room is a different world. You could walk right past the door and not notice but inside you’ll find great signature cocktails and a low-key, mature vibe. The Artisan Hotel bar blends eccentric and fancy in a truly inviting way. It’s a cavernous landscape of leather chairs, chandeliers and framed art prints that cover everything, ceiling included.

If you really just want to dance and have a more Vegas-ey Vegas experience, catch super-fun Prince tribute act Purple Reign at the House of Blues in Mandalay Bay on Sunday nights. The realness is beyond belief. There’s even a Morris Day and the Time tribute for extra verisimilitude.

Merch:
The Attic has practically cornered the market on vintage clothing in Las Vegas, perhaps because it offers two floors of serious finds, including clothes, house wares and furniture. One caveat: the staff may try to charge you a dollar just to shop, but it might be worth your while. Absolutely not-to-be-missed is Fruition, forward-thinking street wear boutique that takes its rare sneakers and vintage t-shirts very seriously. The owners are proud to boast Kanye West and M.I.A. as satisfied customers.

Day Trip:
For a real getaway, head 25 miles south of the city to the Pioneer Saloon in Goodsprings (pop. 200). Established in 1913 to serve the local miners, this stamped-tin bar draws a friendly and eccentric crowd. In addition to some pool tables, the Carol Lombard and Clark Gable Memorial Room is covered with framed pictures and articles commemorating the life and death of Carol Lombard, whose plane crashed on nearby Mount Potosi in 1942, leaving behind her devastated husband, Clark Gable. He is said to have waited to hear the outcome of the search for survivors at the saloon. Perhaps, not surprisingly, it is said to be haunted.

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If there is a special city you'd like to see, or a killer hot spot we somehow overlooked in this guide, email VZ City Guides editor, Erica Phillips, at cityguide (at) venuszine (dot-com).