Nervous System
Complex math is used to create the intriguing patterns in this jewelry line
By Lindsey Anderson
Published: March 20th, 2007 | 10:50am
When Jessica Eve Rosenkrantz gave me the short version of how her and boyfriend Jesse Louis-Rosenberg design and make their jewelry for Nervous System, I thought she had to be joking.
"We use computer programs and algorithms to generate patterns which we can then choose among and edit into the final design that is then realized using digital fabrication techniques," she said.
Algorithms?
"The radiolaria jewelry is generated using a kind of physics simulation called a particle system in a 3-D animation program called Maya," Rosenkrantz said. "We create patterns by scripting the connection of these particles to one another by means of springs and then observing their reactions to the application of different forces. We play with this simulation until we are satisfied with the results and then use pieces of the patterns generated in jewelry."
OK, I'll stick to the short version.
Confusion from this math-challenged journalist aside, Nervous System is the work between a graduate student in architecture (Rosenkrantz) and a mathematician (Louis-Rosenberg). The jewelry this pair creates are unique, intricate pieces ranging from earrings to necklaces that imitate not only architecture but also the daily elements that surround us all.
"I have always found beauty in and inspiration in nature, but in addition, I am interested intellectually in its processes, how they can be characterized, understood, and imitated," Rosenkrantz said.
Two years ago Rosenkrantz and Louis-Rosenberg met at MIT while living in Senior House, MIT's most outrageous, freewheeling, and bizarre dorm, according to Rosenkrantz. They started dating and eventually moved into an apartment in Inman Square, Cambridge with "two cool friends, two cats, and 15 zebra finches."
While working on an architecture project for school one day, Rosenkrantz accidentally cut too many pieces for a model that, she said, ended in the form of a disaster. Not letting the pieces go to waste, she grabbed one and put it around her wrist. "It looked cool," she said. "Other people saw it and thought it was very promising as a bracelet."
So Rosenkrantz tested the waters after the semester was over and took some of the patterns she had been generating for the design of architecture and fit them to a smaller scale for jewelry. "That was how the radiolaria bracelet was born," she said. "I made the first bracelet around January 8, made an Etsy account, and went to sleep. Someone had bought it by the time I woke up the next day."
The pair watched as the radiolaria line took off, and in doing so, Louis-Rosenberg tried his hand at a new pattern. The dendrite line was born through a programmed simulation Louis-Rosenberg created. "The logic behind it is an algorithm called diffuse limited aggregation," Rosenkrantz said. "This simulates a particle acting under random motion, and when that particle hits something, it gets stuck. You start with one particle fixed and keep adding more with this method until you like what you see."
In general, Louis-Rosenberg runs the program numerous times until the patterns stick out to the pair. From there they consult and choose one that can make a seriously awesome piece of jewelry. Then, they convert the files to a digital format, send their files through a computer to a laser cutter and then "print" the design.
"A laser cutter sort of acts like any other kind of printer, except it has a laser instead of ink," Rosenkrantz said. "Using a slightly incorrect setting can cause your material to ignite and burn down the school or just scorch your piece."
Slight imperfections usually occur on the pieces, so the pair sands them out and then attach metal findings and assemble each and every fine detail by hand.
"The delicate look of the piece is part of their appeal," Rosenkrantz said.
"I have had several problems with breaking pieces."
In the unfortunate event of a piece breaking during shipping, Nervous System will either replace the piece for free or give a refund.
"I am extremely grateful that Etsy buyers are so forgiving."
The whole process keeps both Rosenkrantz and Louis-Rosenberg on their toes, to say the least. The business has only been live since January 2007 and the pair has already sold 150 pieces while balancing life and school. Currently, Louis-Rosenberg is residing in Spain and Rosenkrantz is conquering her second year as a masters architecture student, which makes filling orders difficult. Rosenkrantz is hoping to push the business forward in May, when the semester is over. She has a lot of new ideas brewing in that brain of hers, including 3-D patterns, different fabrication techniques, kinetic moving jewelry and furniture.
"I'm currently working on developing a tote bag printed with radiolaria patterns, and the other major project is plastic jewelry dipped in synthetic rubber coating" she said. "These pieces will come in a variety of bright colors, in addition to my standard white, black, and clear."
One of the coolest and most innovative ideas Rosenkrantz has right now is unlike anything Nervous System currently offers. The pair wants to embed springs or magnets in their pieces to create dynamically continuous patterns within the jewelry that will change over time.
How they're going to design and create that, I can't even begin to fathom. But I'll make sure to ask for the short version.
Issue #35
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