Locher's
This Paris atelier delivers sugar and plenty of spice with a delectable collection of naughty tees and necklaces
By Mengly Taing
Published: April 27th, 2007 | 8:52am
When 31-year old Parisian designer Nicole Locher recalls her experience growing up in a small village in the Swiss countryside, she conjures up fond memories of picnics in the prairies, dancing in the rain with her six siblings, and being a giggly schoolgirl at the Swiss Convent where she spent part of her education.
"I grew up in Switzerland in the mountains in a village with about 2,000 people, which would be like going to Mars for someone who lived in a big city," Locher said. "But it was perfect for me."
It’s almost hard to believe that this sheltered environment, closed off from the outside world, could be the cherished childhood home of this perverted designer. That is, until she admits it was her restrained adolescence that made her and her classmates more inclined to explore mischief once they found themselves outside the convent and away from the strict eyes of their presiding nuns.
After graduating from the University of Zurich, Locher moved to San Francisco to work for a graphic design firm. She soon set her sights on the city of lights and moved to Paris in 2001 to open her own studio. Following a successful trial run of her tees two years ago, she decided to launch her women’s line earlier this year. She describes her debut collection simply as "perversion with a touch of class." It’s Swiss modesty meets French coquetry; an anomaly of her conservative upbringing that’s sure to make her former sisters blush.
The soft, cotton jersey tops in her 2007 collection feature a variety of feminine cuts and details, including plunging v-necks, pin tucks, puffy sleeves, and ruffles in an assortment of pastel shades inspired by her favorite decadent desserts served with her cup of tea. These romantic features are contradicted only by Locher’s inclusion of less than sentimental phrases, embroidered on each garment and surrounded by detailed, floral arrangements in autumn colors. These needlepoint designs, inspired by the Belle Époque, are reminiscent of Victorian Valentines and turn-of-the-century handkerchiefs.
Like Locher’s shopping sprees spent scouring old attics and flea markets in Paris and London for inspiration, it’s the act of searching for things that often go overlooked that add an element of fun to each garment. Her cunning way of packaging her unruly thoughts about life and love require at least a second glance. The statements range from the innocuous "I don’t play nice" to the more crude. One such example begins with "Good Luck" on the front collar and wraps around to reveal "Motherfucker" on the back.
"I want to bring back the much needed self-irony into this world," the designer said of her self-described tongue-in-cheek humor. "Most women take themselves too serious these days."
In addition to her offering of tees, Locher’s line also includes a series of handmade silver-chain necklaces carrying pendants adorned with porcelain flowers, charms, and glass beads. Like her tees, Locher’s pendants don’t shy away from bold statements, though this time around they are available in French and English.
For all her critics, Locher said, "There is a concept behind this line. Some people will understand that concept, and others, will just see the crassness of what is written and not see the counterbalance of the beauty and intricacy as well." She respects the opinion of her critics, but also understands they are not for everyone.
Although there is no official news yet of what is brewing in Locher’s studio for her next collection, she says she’s already hard at work. Like a box of chocolates, expect to get surprise in every bite in this collection, as well as the next. She’s excited about the things to come.
As Locher peers out from her hilltop refuge in Montmartre she revels at the sight of gardens, old houses, and steep streets. It is a mild reminder of her childhood oasis, and though she misses her family in Switzerland, Locher said she counts herself very lucky to be living and working in such an idyllic place. Of course, no world would be perfect without a good giggle here and there.
Nicole Locher's tees retail for $69 to $79 and her necklaces retail for $64 to $68. For more information about Locher's, visit lochers.com.
Issue #35
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