Style with staying power

Portland-based designer Emily Katz unveils Spring 2009 collection

By Petra J. Canan
Published: February 23rd, 2009 | 12:00am

The Spring 2009 collection of Portland, Oregon-based fashion designer Emily Katz is one that almost didn't happen. Despite urges to take a season off, 26-year-old Katz returns with "Out of Darkness," combining usability with class.

"It's like semi-business attire — more formal, more professional — but also pieces that you can really wear for a lot of different kinds of events," Katz said.

Drawn to more cold-weather staples and known for her jackets, Katz decided to take on the collection as a personal challenge. The result is a line of standout pieces that can be customized to a woman's individual personality.

From the high-waisted Brisa pant to the sleek and sexy halter Party Dress, a palette of soft cream and gray gets its punch from unique details that filter through Katz's designs. There is a green side zipper on the Picnic dress, and the reversible Wish Two-Sided Top, a trapeze-cut flowing top featuring a tie at the neck that can be worn in the front or back. Much like her Cross My Heart dress from her Fall 2008 collection, "In Whispers," a sheath with delicate cap sleeves and two crossing straps that can be worn crossed over the chest or back, the idea is versatility.

Combining feminine elements, like bows, and the more functional and fun, like pockets, Katz said she designs what women both want and need, drawing from her own tastes in clothing.

"Ease and comfort and being sexy without trying very hard," she said.

Katz also continues to create her line from sustainable and recycled materials like soy jersey and organic cotton collected from dealers and companies around the nation and abroad. When selecting colors, Katz said she is first drawn to texture and how the type of fabric relates to how the color is perceived or enhanced.

With women spending less on clothing and looking for longevity in the garments they invest in, Katz said she chose to create several undyed pieces and others in simple colors to keep costs down and make the pieces easier to mix and match.

Musician. Artist. Food enthusiast and blogger. Katz never intended to have a career in the fashion industry. In fact, her entrance into fashion was more of a creative coincidence. Feeling disconnected to her college environment as an art student, Katz returned to her hometown. The eclectic mix of styles found in Portland combined with a lifelong appreciation for a sustainable lifestyle shaped both her personal style and creative vision.

"If you can do that in your work and inspire other people to believe that way maybe at some point we can really make a difference," she said.

Her lack of formal training in fashion design and hands-on approach helped develop her aesthetic.

"The way that I design is really organic," Katz said. "I will sit down and play with fabric and start sewing and things will happen from there."

Launched in Fall 2007 and picked up by boutiques such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles, she wanted to show her personal growth since her first fashion collaborations with her then-boyfriend on their Bonnie Heart Clyde label, keeping in mind the conscientious shopper.

While her plans for the future include the line — she recently moved into a new studio space — she wants to continue mixing her passions together, bringing her artwork and designs on the road when performing as singer and guitarist with her band Love Menu.

"I guess I think of it as a body of work that is evolving," she said. "But I am stuck in the middle of it so it is hard to see it from my own perspective."

View more of Emily Katz’s work online at emilykatz.com